Solingen Scissors: What Makes German Steel Special and How to Keep Them Sharp
When scissors may be labelled Solingen under German law, which steels and hardness are required, forged vs stamped, and how to keep them sharp: what not to cut, cleaning, oiling, storage and professional sharpening.
Solingen scissors are scissors whose essential manufacturing stages all took place in the Solingen industrial area of Germany, under a German regulation that has protected the name since 1994. What actually sets them apart is a defined steel, a minimum hardness for every pair and a check of cutting quality. That sharpness does not maintain itself: it depends on what you cut, on cleaning and oiling the screw, on proper storage and on sharpening by a professional when needed. This guide explains what lies behind the name, the differences between steel types and manufacturing methods, and how to maintain your scissors for years.
The legal meaning of "Solingen" on Solingen scissors
In Germany, commercial use of the name Solingen is regulated by a federal ordinance of 16 December 1994 (Solingenverordnung). Under its Section 1, only cutting tools that meet two conditions may be marked with the name: all essential manufacturing stages took place within the Solingen industrial area, and the product is fit for its intended use in terms of raw materials and workmanship.
Section 2 defines the area of origin: the city of Solingen and the city of Haan in the Mettmann district. Section 3 lists which products count as cutting tools, and scissors of all kinds appear there alongside knives, razors and manicure tools.
The Wuppertal-Solingen-Remscheid Chamber of Industry and Commerce has published minimum requirements for the marking, which list the manufacturing stages: hot or cold forging, machining, heat treatment, surface treatment and finishing, as well as fitting the handles and the final joining of the two halves of the scissors.
The next change is already on its way. Since 1 December 2025 it has been possible to apply in the European Union for geographical indication protection for craft and industrial products, under Regulation 2023/2411. The German ordinance, last amended in January 2026, provides that it will lapse on the day the EU Intellectual Property Office registers the protected designation or issues a final decision on the application. Until then, the German ordinance is what applies.
The steel in Solingen scissors: stainless or carbon steel
The chamber's minimum requirements specify two types of steel for scissors: X46Cr13 stainless steel or C45 unalloyed carbon steel. They also set a minimum hardness on the Rockwell C scale (HRC), which measures steel hardness: at least 52 HRC for scissors with an overall length of up to 130 mm, and at least 55 HRC for longer scissors.
There is also a requirement for consistency between the two blades: a hardness difference of no more than 2 HRC in small scissors and no more than 1 HRC in large ones. In addition, the blades must be of equal length, with a uniformly ground cutting edge, smooth action and a surface free of cracks, chips or corrosion. Our catalogue includes three different approaches to steel:
Ice-hardened stainless steel: the Kretzer FINNY series, for example the FINNY PROFI 25 cm tailor's shears with a 12 cm cutting length. After standard hardening, the blade is cooled below zero to improve the steel's structure. One Solingen knife maker describes cooling the blades to minus 80 degrees in its process. Stainless steel is highly resistant to rust, but not completely immune.
Coated forged carbon steel: the Kretzer SPIRALE Classic series, such as the SPIRALE Classic 18 cm all-purpose scissors, is made of hot-forged carbon steel with chrome plating. Carbon steel rusts from water and moisture, and the plating protects it. Where the plating wears off, moisture can leave marks.
Micro-serrated blade: D.PERES SOLINGEN TURBO, 20 cm, with an 8 cm blade. One blade has tiny serrations and the other is smooth, so that slippery fabrics such as satin, silk and chiffon do not slide while cutting.
Forged or stamped: the difference in manufacturing
In forging, a steel bar is heated and pressed into a die with hammer blows until a three-dimensional shape is formed. One Solingen manufacturer describes heating to about 1050 degrees and three to four blows in the die, and only then cutting the part out of the forging. In stamping, the part is cut directly from a steel sheet in a press, so it is usually thinner. Some blades are also laser-cut from a sheet.
Manufacturers who forge claim that forging gives a better profile and better edge retention. It is worth knowing that the German ordinance does not require a single manufacturing method. It requires the essential stages to take place in the area and the product to be fit for its purpose. So if forging matters to you, check the product description: for SPIRALE Classic, for example, it is stated explicitly.
How to keep Solingen scissors sharp
A blade loses its edge mainly for reasons within your control: unsuitable material, dirt, rust and knocks. Most of the damage can be prevented with a few simple habits.
What to cut and what not to
Fabric scissors are for fabric only. Paper dulls the blade faster than fabric, so it is worth keeping a separate pair for pattern paper and cardboard, such as Kretzer FINNY HOBBY, 20 cm, which is also designed for paper, cardboard and foil.
Do not cut metal wire. It damages the cutting edge.
Do not cut over pins. Contact with a pin damages the edge, so keep pins away from the cutting line.
Do not force the scissors to cut. When there is resistance, extra force can damage the alignment of the blades.
Use micro-serrated scissors on fabric only. Paper and hard materials wear down the serrations quickly.
Cleaning after work
After each use, wipe the inner side of the blades with a soft, dry cloth, including the area around the screw where fibres build up. After cutting adhesive tape or coated fabric, remove the adhesive residue; rubbing alcohol can help. Do not put scissors in the dishwasher. Very dirty stainless steel scissors can be washed with dish soap, dried thoroughly and lightly oiled. Carbon steel scissors should not be washed in water at all.
Oiling the screw
One or two drops of sewing machine oil on the pivot point are enough. Open and close a few times so the oil works in, then wipe off the excess or cut an old scrap of fabric, because oil left on the blade can stain fabric. When to oil: when you feel resistance in the movement, or every few months according to the manufacturer's instructions. With intensive use, scissor makers recommend oiling as often as once a week or once every two weeks. Vegetable oil is not suitable for regular oiling.
Storage
Keep scissors closed, in a sheath or their original packaging, in a dry place. Open scissors tossed into a drawer with other tools get knocked about and the edge is damaged. Before long storage, apply a thin layer of oil to the blades and wipe it off before the next use. And one last point: a drop onto the floor almost always damages the cutting edge or the alignment of the blades.
When and how to sharpen Solingen scissors
The signs that it is time: cutting takes more force, the fabric gets chewed instead of cut in a clean line, or a small nick has formed in the blade after a knock. A British scissor maker suggests as a guideline sharpening roughly every three months under heavy daily use, and roughly once a year with occasional use.
Professional sharpening follows the blade's existing angle and removes as little material as possible. Professional scissor-sharpening equipment is built to reproduce the original bevel angle exactly and to follow the curve of each blade. A home sharpener, by contrast, can change the angle and affect the way the blades close against each other.
Bring the scissors to the sharpener clean and dry.
Say whether the blade is smooth or micro-serrated, and what type of steel it is.
Do not sharpen micro-serrated scissors such as TURBO at home, because ordinary sharpening can ruin the serrations. Look for a sharpener who knows this type of blade.
After sharpening, check on a scrap of fabric that the cut is clean along the whole length of the blade, right to the tip.
A long pair for thick fabrics and multiple layers, such as D.PERES SOLINGEN PERFECTION, 26 cm, benefits especially from this care, because any nick in a long blade is felt along the entire cutting line.
In summary
The Solingen marking guarantees manufacture in a defined area and a product fit for its purpose. Keeping the edge sharp is up to whoever uses the scissors: a separate pair for each material, wiping, a drop of oil on the screw, closed storage and professional sharpening. You can find all the models in the Solingen scissors category, and more sewing scissors in the Scissors category. For advice on matching a pair to your type of work, or for a wholesale quote by quantity, call 03-9444226, WhatsApp 055-2473993, or use our contact page.
Frequently asked questions
Which towns are included in the Solingen production area under German law?
Under Section 2 of the 1994 German Solingen name protection regulation, the area of origin includes the city of Solingen and the town of Haan in the Mettmann district. Scissors marked with the name Solingen must go through all essential manufacturing stages in this area.
What steel is required for scissors marked Solingen?
The minimum requirements of the Wuppertal-Solingen-Remscheid Chamber of Commerce and Industry specify X46Cr13 stainless steel or C45 carbon steel for scissors. They also set a hardness of at least 52 HRC for scissors up to 130 mm and at least 55 HRC for longer scissors, with only a small difference in hardness between the two blades.
What is the difference between forged and stamped scissors?
In forged scissors, the steel is heated and pressed in a die with hammer blows until a three-dimensional shape is formed. In stamped scissors, the blade is cut directly from a steel sheet in a press, so it is usually thinner. The German standard doesn't require one method, so check the product description to see whether the scissors are forged.
Can stainless steel scissors rust?
Stainless steel is highly resistant to rust, but it isn't completely immune. Prolonged humidity, damp storage or residue from moist materials can cause spots. That's why stainless steel scissors should also be dried after cleaning and stored closed in a dry place.
Can carbon steel scissors be washed with water?
No. Carbon steel rusts from water and moisture, and even on chrome- or nickel-plated models, stains may appear where the plating has worn off. Clean with a dry cloth, remove glue residue with cleaning alcohol and dry immediately.
How do you clean sticky tape residue off scissors?
Wipe the blades with a cloth and a little rubbing alcohol until the adhesive comes off, and dry thoroughly. If adhesive has got into the screw area, open and close the scissors several times while wiping, and add a drop of oil. It's worth keeping a separate pair for sticky tapes and not using your fabric scissors.
Which oil should you use on scissors, and how often?
Sewing machine oil is suitable for oiling the screw: a drop or two on the pivot point, open and close a few times, and wipe off the excess. Oil when you feel resistance or every few months, and with intensive use even once every week or two. Vegetable oil is not suitable for regular lubrication.
How often should fabric scissors be sharpened?
It depends on the workload and the materials. A British scissors manufacturer suggests, as a guideline, sharpening roughly once every three months with heavy daily use and about once a year with occasional use. The practical sign is cutting that takes more effort, or fabric that gets chewed instead of being cut in a clean line.
What should you do after scissors fall on the floor?
Check whether a nick has formed on the edge of the blade, and whether the blades still close against each other along their full length. Cut a scrap of fabric and check that the cut is clean all the way to the tip. If there is a nick or the cut is uneven, take the scissors to a professional sharpener who can repair the edge and the alignment.
Why shouldn't you cut paper with fabric shears?
Paper and cardboard wear down the cutting edge faster than fabric, and fabric shears used on paper start to chew the fabric. The usual studio solution is a separate, labeled pair for pattern paper, so the fabric shears are kept for fabric only.
